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Looks like summer is on its way. Looking forward to finishing off the engine and getting it rolling road tuned in the near future.

Has anyone got any videos other than the ones on youtube that can be found of k100,k1100,k1200 engined minis on the road???????

POST THE LINKS UP OR SEND A “CONTACT ME” MESSAGE OR IF ANYONE HAS A BLOG OR PAGE SIMILAR TO THIS ONE AND THEY WOULD LIKE ME TO LINK IT ON MY LINKS PAGE CONTACT ME.

Cheers

Adam

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The approach to use an electric cooling fan was taken due to space requirements for the hose work from the head end plate drains to the rear oil return manifold. Measurements were taken and the largest cooling fan was ordered that would fit onto the rear side of the alloy rad. The original front cowling was retained and the mounting positions used to mount up some mounting brackets so that the fan would fit up against the radiator.

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photo 2-6

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The SC ECU and loom has the function to switch negative to a relay to power the fan so wiring should be straight forward.

With the SC stainless manifolds i decided to wrap them with black exhaust wrapping. I did this to try and remove a little heat from the engine bay and also the bulkhead of the mini. The manifolds pass very close to the subframe cross member and the cars bulkhead panel. The ends are secured by CV boot stainless ties.

photo 1-4

Manifold wrapping

 

In the lower of the two pictures you can also see the M8x1.0 oil supply drilling that i will insert a union to supply the cams.

The manifold studs were renewed using M8 x 40 manifold studs and brass nuts available from all good online auction sites.

 

Getting the standard original engine out was easy..

engine out

old 1044

Putting this one in was a little more testing but we got there. Its a tight fit around the radiator / fan. Thought will have to take place regarding head oil return pipe lines if using an original cooling fan driven off the water pump.

1330 in

 

The original engine is for sale and open to offers as of Jan 2015. Basic spec is a 998 A series bored ‘040 oversize, Stage 3 unleaded head, 266 camshaft, lightened and balanced bottom end and pre-verto flywheel, orange diagram and fully rebuilt gearbox. If you require full list of specs please fill out a contact me form and i will email specs and videos if requested of the engine running in the car prior to removal.

Once the jackshaft was in and the pulleys fitted the engine was assembled in modular format. The cylinder head was re-assembled and checked again once the camshaft was returned from Piper. The re-profiling worked and the valve gap issue was resolved. This could then be fitted. I used SC’s Silicone / copper head gasket for ease of assembly. Head studs of the 8V K100 engine arrangement have to be shortened in all positions (by approx 7mm in my application). The original BMW head bolt washers are used with new A series flanged head nuts. SC specifies all torque values and tightening sequence in the build manual. Once complete spacing between each camshaft and fasteners have to be checked. A new cast large impeller (without bypass output) water pump was fitted. This needs to be modified along the top edge of the alternator top mount point. This modification is removing material so it allows the cylinder head / SC end cover plate to sit above the water pump body. The original mounting hole is used so care is needed to be taken when modifying to remove enough material to allow the water pump to fit but minimum material to prevent weakening of the alternator mounting. Also a cast rib on the front edge of the water pump needs to be ground back to allow sufficient clearance for the timing belt to run past from crankshaft pulley to inlet cam gear.

Basic cam timing of the engine could then take place. This was completed over the course of an afternoon and checked, double checked and triple checked with various belt / pulley adjustments involved. After adjustments the cam timing was set to SC’s instructions. An accurate DTI is an important and essential tool in this job and also mounting it so it acts in parallel with the inlet valve . The engine was then rotated carefully by hand to see if there was any issues with interferance but everything was fine. Tension of the belt is measured on the length of belt from the exhaust cam to the oil pump (jackshaft) pulley. This is rotation level between thumb and index finger. Its adjusted by the cam tensioner roller as shown at the bottom of the picture. From past projects when this turned up in the SC kit it is from a Ford Pinto engine. This is the cam belt tensioner type if parts are required. The ford part number is: 1 496 915. I will get the details of the belt from the continental model number.

camtiming

The gearbox was then fitted to the engine body, followed by the MED Roller bearing drop gears, transfer casing and MED clutch and flywheel assembly. Below is the result…

Gearbox fitting

 

Engine assembled

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With the SC kit the original camshaft is utilised to run the oil pump from the SC camshaft pulley. The original camshaft can be modified if costs need to be kept down. Or as in my case i decided to purchase a modified camshaft / jackshaft from SC. The redundant cam lobes have been removed reducing the rotating mass inside the engine case. These modifications allow a constant flow of oil up through the original block rocker arm supply casting. As the head oil feed was welded with its original modifications you can re-drill the head to link the block to the head gallery. By doing this the cams will be lubricated through an internal gallery circuit.

Jackshaft 3

Jackshaft 2

Jackshaft 1

I decided that i did not wish to re-drill and intersect the heads original oil feed gallery so i ran an external oil feed hose from the oil pressure switch union on the front of the block via a T piece to the plugged port on the rear side of the BMW head. This thread is M8x1.0 thread and unions are available to fit this port direct just remove the factory allen bung and job done.

Head oil feed

 

The oil pump that was fitted was a A+ spade drive turbo oil pump. This was supplied by minispeed.

Cylinder head / camshaft issues.

Posted: January 12, 2015 in Uncategorized

On re-assembly of the cylinder head it became apparant that i had an issue with the standard camshafts not allowing the inlet valve to fully close. After some head scratching i realised this was due to the seats having to be dropped in the head when skimming the head face to get the combustion chamber volumes as per the engines desired compression ratio. The seat being dropped allowed the valve, bucket and shim to move up closer to the base circle of the cam lobe thus when the cam was rotated and i should of been measuring a valve gap i still had a valve that was open and the shim was still in contact with the base circle of the cam lobe.

After many option and idea discussed with Chris at Toovey race engines we decided to send the inlet cam to Piper Cams to have the base circles re-profiled and give me my valve clearances as per BMW’s specs.

 

Head rebuild

New year update.

Posted: January 12, 2015 in Uncategorized

Well its been a long gap again in updating this but ill cut to the chase the engine was fitted towards the latter part of last year and it runs…. It needs to be tuned on a rolling road and I’m hoping to get the car running for the summer now.

Ill now try and update all of the info leading up to the engines first start…..

 

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Right where were we…… Ecu….

Posted: September 30, 2014 in Uncategorized

After a lengthy time away from this i thought i’d better pull my finger out and get this updated.

At my last entry i was preparing to build the gearbox using the components that were sourced from MED. This went together rather well and after a little time taken to ensure all clearances and floats were correct the item was completed and rebuilt ready to mate with the engine.

Around this time i purchased the specialist components ECU kit, alternator and manifolds.

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The manifold is the stainless steel Specialist components road spec manifold. This has a lambda sensor port TIG welded into the Y piece exhaust.

The final picture shows the differances between the K100 8v coolant sensor housing (top) and the k1100 16v coolant temp sensor housing. The top one is the one i will be using for my engine as it is the 8v design.

Questions.

Posted: April 29, 2014 in Uncategorized

Hi.

ive recently had a couple of contact me forms filled in with a couple of questions people wanted answering. I have tried to reply to all of them within 48 hours. If you are still awaiting some feedback this is because the email addresses provided could have been incorrect and the inbox is not recognised. Please fill in another contact me form confirming your email address and I’ll forward my reply to your questions.

 

Cheers guys.

 

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