Posts Tagged ‘block’

The conversion gets a little complicated trying to pipe up all of the required lines in so little space. Also having an exposed cam belt running within around 15mm away from a radiator bottom hose can be a little daunting. ¬†We now have 2 10mm drain lines, a 25mm drain line from head to block sump. A block breather, a head breather and the modified bottom and top radiator hoses. The hoses that i used for the head drain lines need to be a minimum of 3/8″ or 10mm. The head main drain is 25mm. I used black silicone hoses for the oil and water applications on the engine with nylon hose joiners. A selection of 90, 45 and 180 formed hoses were used to hose up the engine.

Cooling

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As the pictures show the radiator fan is very close running to the head breather pipework at this point the choice was made to run an electric fan mounted to the outside of the radiator to free up some much needed space. Brackets in the pictures above also are for mock up only.

 

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With the SC stainless manifolds i decided to wrap them with black exhaust wrapping. I did this to try and remove a little heat from the engine bay and also the bulkhead of the mini. The manifolds pass very close to the subframe cross member and the cars bulkhead panel. The ends are secured by CV boot stainless ties.

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Manifold wrapping

 

In the lower of the two pictures you can also see the M8x1.0 oil supply drilling that i will insert a union to supply the cams.

The manifold studs were renewed using M8 x 40 manifold studs and brass nuts available from all good online auction sites.

 

Getting the standard original engine out was easy..

engine out

old 1044

Putting this one in was a little more testing but we got there. Its a tight fit around the radiator / fan. Thought will have to take place regarding head oil return pipe lines if using an original cooling fan driven off the water pump.

1330 in

 

The original engine is for sale and open to offers as of Jan 2015. Basic spec is a 998 A series bored ‘040 oversize, Stage 3 unleaded head, 266 camshaft, lightened and balanced bottom end and pre-verto flywheel, orange diagram and fully rebuilt gearbox. If you require full list of specs please fill out a contact me form and i will email specs and videos if requested of the engine running in the car prior to removal.

Once the jackshaft was in and the pulleys fitted the engine was assembled in modular format. The cylinder head was re-assembled and checked again once the camshaft was returned from Piper. The re-profiling worked and the valve gap issue was resolved. This could then be fitted. I used SC’s Silicone / copper head gasket for ease of assembly. Head studs of the 8V K100 engine arrangement have to be shortened in all positions (by approx 7mm in my application). The original BMW head bolt washers are used with new A series flanged head nuts. SC specifies all torque values and tightening sequence in the build manual. Once complete spacing between each camshaft and fasteners have to be checked. A new cast large impeller (without bypass output) water pump was fitted. This needs to be modified along the top edge of the alternator top mount point. This modification is removing material so it allows the cylinder head / SC end cover plate to sit above the water pump body. The original mounting hole is used so care is needed to be taken when modifying to remove enough material to allow the water pump to fit but minimum material to prevent weakening of the alternator mounting. Also a cast rib on the front edge of the water pump needs to be ground back to allow sufficient clearance for the timing belt to run past from crankshaft pulley to inlet cam gear.

Basic cam timing of the engine could then take place. This was completed over the course of an afternoon and checked, double checked and triple checked with various belt / pulley adjustments involved. After adjustments the cam timing was set to SC’s instructions. An accurate DTI is an important and essential tool in this job and also mounting it so it acts in parallel with the inlet valve . The engine was then rotated carefully by hand to see if there was any issues with interferance but everything was fine. Tension of the belt is measured on the length of belt from the exhaust cam to the oil pump (jackshaft) pulley. This is rotation level between thumb and index finger. Its adjusted by the cam tensioner roller as shown at the bottom of the picture. From past projects when this turned up in the SC kit it is from a Ford Pinto engine. This is the cam belt tensioner type if parts are required. The ford part number is: 1 496 915. I will get the details of the belt from the continental model number.

camtiming

The gearbox was then fitted to the engine body, followed by the MED Roller bearing drop gears, transfer casing and MED clutch and flywheel assembly. Below is the result…

Gearbox fitting

 

Engine assembled

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So again due to lack of time at present the engine project has been on the back burner for another month. But on friday i opened up the parts that had been returned from Chris and got the build underway. I picked up new big end, mains and thrust bearings from Mini spares centre Midlands on Friday afternoon and got the crank and mains in and torqued down on friday night.

This morning i started early’ish and managed to get the rods and pistons in. Time was taken with this and it all went smoothly should i say myself.

I have mocked up the basic engine to get some more pictures to show viewers following this. I tried to pick up a water pump today but couldn’t find anywhere local with one in stock. Ill grab one of these next week now from Mini spares and then carry out the modifications to the top edge and alloy web removal.

I did come across a couple of niggles, i still need to modify the original camshaft to allow oil flow to the cams. I spoke to John at SC in the week regarding this and he was helpful and sent me over a picture showing how SC tackle the modification. Ill add a picture of this on maybe the next post. Also one of the bottom plate mounting holes to the man journal cap drilling is slightly off with my block so this will need a modification to address the issue. The head studs all have to be cut down in the 8v head configuration so an estimated 10mm will need to be taken off these for clearance purposes.

So theres plenty of work left to get through but the projects coming together nicely now…. finally.

Click on thumbnails for full size pics.

Cheers

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Block back

Posted: December 5, 2012 in Block
Tags: , , , , , , ,

Its back…

I picked up the block last week from the machine shop and i’m pleased to say that the work that has been carried out is perfect – Very happy!!!

The bores are perfectly honed and matched to the pistons type that i chose (sticking with following the SC 8V engine build). The cam bearings have been replaced and the centre cap has been milled flat for the centre strap fitment. The modifications to the block face have been completed to a great standard.

The machine shop were a little concerned about how the drillings for the new head studs would turn out if they hit a flaw in the casting or how the intersection drillings would even drill straight. The only issue i can complain about is the fact the block has been through the either acid bath or high temp cleaner and its taken some of the blue paint off. Repainting can be done again though when the bottom end and pistons are away being balanced and machined for valve relief pockets.

Incase anyone is planning to have a go at the conversion Sam from theminiforum did highlight some good advice. Measurements for the new head stud should be drilled on a mill, clocking off the 3 original retained head studs. 76mm to the side and 86mm back. Thank you Sam.

block face prepped

Centre main strap