Posts Tagged ‘stainless manifolds’

So the final push to connect all the oil and water unions / hoses and hose clips was on and to try and get the engine running. I had to purchase a pre engaged starter and wire that in removing the inertia remote solenoid and related wiring from the old car setup. Once oil and water had been filled and the complete system checked for leaks i attempted a crank to check oil pressure. Gulp….. Nothing. After running through the basics, oil level again, box to engine block bolts and finding nothing i attempted back filling the oil pressure switch drilling and rotating the engine backwards to draw oil into the oil pump. The oil was drawn in and again i tried a short crank to check oil pressure. Still nothing. At this point I went home to think.

After going through all possibilities of the o-ring missing situation, the oil pump gasket rotating when fitting leaving the bung in the central oil pickup pipe i was getting frustrated of having to think the engine would have to come out to check it all again. The next evening i went back to the car and timed up the engine to remove the timing belt i was thinking perhaps the oil pump wasn’t rotating fast enough to draw oil up from the sump. As the old camshaft is now an oil pump jackshaft i connected a battery drill to a socket and spun up the oil pump. Bingo finally a healthy oil pressure showing on the gauge. After refitting and checking the timing again by hand turning i connected up the laptop and opened up SXTune. I wanted to check if the ECU was picking up a signal and showing an RPM from the engine it was after a couple of adjustments getting the crank sensor aligned. I then checked if we had spark at the plugs. Again yes.

That weekend i completed the fuel lines, filter, fuel pump and final bits and bobs in the engine bay and stuck a couple of gallons of fresh unleaded in the tank. On the second or third crank it kicked up. After a minute of the occasional cough messing with the throttle bodies it ran. It ran perfectly at about 900-1000RPM. Noticeably it was so quiet at the front end. No rattling of pushrods followers or timing chains now. Even though it ran nice it wouldn’t rev and it really needs to go on a rolling road to be properly set up I think i managed maybe 1200RPM maximum by just touching the throttle linkage.

Finally i have to complete the wiring for the alternator circuit and the relays need to be plumbed in properly to operate the fuel pump and the cooling fan.

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The conversion gets a little complicated trying to pipe up all of the required lines in so little space. Also having an exposed cam belt running within around 15mm away from a radiator bottom hose can be a little daunting.  We now have 2 10mm drain lines, a 25mm drain line from head to block sump. A block breather, a head breather and the modified bottom and top radiator hoses. The hoses that i used for the head drain lines need to be a minimum of 3/8″ or 10mm. The head main drain is 25mm. I used black silicone hoses for the oil and water applications on the engine with nylon hose joiners. A selection of 90, 45 and 180 formed hoses were used to hose up the engine.

Cooling

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As the pictures show the radiator fan is very close running to the head breather pipework at this point the choice was made to run an electric fan mounted to the outside of the radiator to free up some much needed space. Brackets in the pictures above also are for mock up only.

 

With the SC stainless manifolds i decided to wrap them with black exhaust wrapping. I did this to try and remove a little heat from the engine bay and also the bulkhead of the mini. The manifolds pass very close to the subframe cross member and the cars bulkhead panel. The ends are secured by CV boot stainless ties.

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Manifold wrapping

 

In the lower of the two pictures you can also see the M8x1.0 oil supply drilling that i will insert a union to supply the cams.

The manifold studs were renewed using M8 x 40 manifold studs and brass nuts available from all good online auction sites.

 

Once the jackshaft was in and the pulleys fitted the engine was assembled in modular format. The cylinder head was re-assembled and checked again once the camshaft was returned from Piper. The re-profiling worked and the valve gap issue was resolved. This could then be fitted. I used SC’s Silicone / copper head gasket for ease of assembly. Head studs of the 8V K100 engine arrangement have to be shortened in all positions (by approx 7mm in my application). The original BMW head bolt washers are used with new A series flanged head nuts. SC specifies all torque values and tightening sequence in the build manual. Once complete spacing between each camshaft and fasteners have to be checked. A new cast large impeller (without bypass output) water pump was fitted. This needs to be modified along the top edge of the alternator top mount point. This modification is removing material so it allows the cylinder head / SC end cover plate to sit above the water pump body. The original mounting hole is used so care is needed to be taken when modifying to remove enough material to allow the water pump to fit but minimum material to prevent weakening of the alternator mounting. Also a cast rib on the front edge of the water pump needs to be ground back to allow sufficient clearance for the timing belt to run past from crankshaft pulley to inlet cam gear.

Basic cam timing of the engine could then take place. This was completed over the course of an afternoon and checked, double checked and triple checked with various belt / pulley adjustments involved. After adjustments the cam timing was set to SC’s instructions. An accurate DTI is an important and essential tool in this job and also mounting it so it acts in parallel with the inlet valve . The engine was then rotated carefully by hand to see if there was any issues with interferance but everything was fine. Tension of the belt is measured on the length of belt from the exhaust cam to the oil pump (jackshaft) pulley. This is rotation level between thumb and index finger. Its adjusted by the cam tensioner roller as shown at the bottom of the picture. From past projects when this turned up in the SC kit it is from a Ford Pinto engine. This is the cam belt tensioner type if parts are required. The ford part number is: 1 496 915. I will get the details of the belt from the continental model number.

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The gearbox was then fitted to the engine body, followed by the MED Roller bearing drop gears, transfer casing and MED clutch and flywheel assembly. Below is the result…

Gearbox fitting

 

Engine assembled

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